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Me waiting to catch a wave! |
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My group learning how to paddle and catch a wave on the beach. |
This past weekend I went on a surfing trip in Jervis Bay. My group woke up early in the morning on March 12, 2011 to hit the waves. First we had a short safety lesson about what to do when encountering different marine animals and how to take on the rips. I learned how to signal for help if the rip carried me out too far into the water and what was considered proper surfing etiquette. I then was sent into the water to catch and wave and simply lay on the board as it carried me to shore. This showed me what the speed and feeling of a wave carrying my board would be. I then went back to the beach to practice the transition from paddling to actually standing up on the board. My group was taught how to surf on extremely long boards so the process of standing up would be a lot easier.
After a short about of beach practice, I was sent out into the ocean to attempt to ride my first wave. After multiple attempts, I was unsuccessful. My instructor told me that when it was time to stand up on the board, he would yell "NOW!" So, I walked my board towards a wave. I grasped my board with two hands and leapt onto it. I made sure I wasn't too far toward the front of the board to prevent myself from nose-diving. I start aggressively paddling as I feel the wave start to pick up speed. Before I knew it, I heard my instructor confidently yell "NOW!” As quickly as I could I pushed my body up onto my feet and carefully balanced on the board as it carried me to shallow water. It was such a thrill.
As soon as I got up onto the board one time, I knew the timing of when to stand up for my future attempts. I successfully stood up four more times before my two hour lesson was over. I can understand why surfing is such a widely loved sport. The freedom I felt first standing on the board was a feeling that made me crave more. I wish I lived in an area closer to the ocean than Buffalo, NY, because I would love to continue practicing to surf when I get home. Overall, it was an awesome experience that I can't wait to have again.